The Paris Agreement, a landmark international treaty signed in 2015, set ambitious goals to combat climate change, including the target of reducing greenhouse gas emissions by 50% by the year 2030. For the United States, this translates to a 50-52% reduction in emissions compared to the levels recorded in 2005. As we assess our progress towards this crucial milestone, the numbers reveal that we are progressing in the right direction. This is excellent and welcome news, considering all that is happening in the world right now.
Current Progress
Since the inception of the Paris Agreement and our commitment to its goals, the United States has embarked on a journey to lower its greenhouse gas emissions. Since 2005, our nation has successfully reduced emissions by approximately 18%. This remarkable achievement can be attributed to several factors, including the increasing adoption of renewable energy sources like wind and solar power and the transition from coal to cleaner natural gas for electricity generation. Building on our successes, another 7% reduction in emissions is locked in by 2030. This brings our total emissions reduction to an impressive 25%, marking the halfway point toward our 2030 goal. In eight years, we reduced 25%. Now, we need to decline another 25% in the remaining six. The crucial question is how to accomplish the subsequent 25% reduction in six years.
Critical Strategies for Achieving the Next 25% Reduction
Clean Electricity Tax Credits: One of the primary strategies to continue reducing emissions involves tax credits that support the generation of clean electricity. This includes incentives for developing solar, wind, and nuclear power, crucial for producing zero-carbon electricity. By encouraging the expansion of clean energy sources, we can significantly cut emissions from the power sector.
Electric Vehicle Adoption: Transitioning to electric vehicles (EVs) is vital to our emissions reduction efforts. Tax credits for consumers and businesses can accelerate the adoption of EVs, reducing emissions from the transportation sector, one of the most significant contributors to greenhouse gas emissions.
Energy Efficiency: Tax credits for businesses to improve building insulation and overall energy efficiency are essential for reducing energy consumption and emissions. Lower energy usage not only reduces emissions but also lowers costs for businesses.
Carbon Capture Technology: We must invest in carbon capture technology to tackle emissions from industrial processes like cement and concrete production. Tax credits and incentives encourage industries to adopt carbon capture solutions, preventing emissions from entering the atmosphere.
Methane Emission Reduction: Methane, a potent greenhouse gas, often escapes from leaky pipes and abandoned oil and gas wells. Addressing these leaks and adequately plugging abandoned wells can substantially reduce methane emissions.
Reducing Electricity Waste: We must ensure that the clean electricity generated from wind, solar, and nuclear sources is used efficiently. Efforts to minimize electricity generation and distribution system waste can further lower emissions.
How Agriculture Contributes Positively to the Reduction
Agriculture significantly contributes to greenhouse gas emissions, accounting for approximately 22% of global emissions. However, it’s important to note that agriculture also has the potential to play a crucial role in carbon reduction and capture through various practices and technologies. Here are some key points to consider:
Reducing Emissions from Livestock: Livestock farming, particularly cattle, produces methane, a potent greenhouse gas. Implementing practices such as improved herd management, dietary adjustments, and methane capture systems can help reduce methane emissions from livestock.
Adopting Sustainable Farming Practices: Transitioning to sustainable agricultural practices can lower emissions. These practices include reduced tillage, cover cropping, crop rotation, and agroforestry. They help sequester carbon in soil and reduce the need for synthetic fertilizers, which can be a source of nitrous oxide emissions.
Bioenergy and Carbon Capture: Some agricultural residues and biomass can be used for bioenergy production. Carbon capture and storage (CCS) technologies can also capture carbon dioxide emissions from bioenergy facilities or other agricultural processes, preventing them from entering the atmosphere.
Afforestation and Reforestation: Planting trees on agricultural lands or restoring forests can capture and store carbon. These efforts can offset emissions from other agricultural activities.
Carbon Farming: Carbon farming practices deliberately sequester carbon in soils and vegetation. This includes composting, mulching, and planting cover crops to enhance carbon storage in agricultural soils.
Reducing Food Waste: A significant portion of emissions in the food system comes from food production that goes to waste. Reducing food waste indirectly lowers emissions associated with agriculture.
Carbon Markets and Incentives: Governments and organizations are exploring carbon markets and financial incentives to reward farmers for adopting carbon-reducing practices and sequestering carbon on their lands.
Research and Innovation: Ongoing research into innovative agricultural practices and technologies can help identify new carbon reduction and capture opportunities in the sector.
Overall, agriculture has the potential to be part of the solution to climate change by reducing its emissions and actively sequestering carbon. Combining efforts in agriculture with emissions reductions in other sectors will be essential to achieving global climate goals and addressing the challenges of climate change.
Our progress in reducing greenhouse gas emissions by 18% since 2005 is a significant achievement and testament to our commitment to the Paris Agreement’s goals. However, as we stand midway, we must intensify our efforts to achieve the remaining 25% reduction by 2030.
Key strategies include leveraging clean electricity tax credits to expand renewable energy, promoting electric vehicle adoption, enhancing energy efficiency in buildings, and investing in carbon capture technology. Additionally, addressing methane emissions and eliminating waste in electricity generation are vital components of our emissions reduction strategy.
The path to reaching our 2030 target may be challenging, but it is feasible with a combination of policy measures, technological advancements, and collective efforts. By prioritizing emissions reduction, we can meet our climate goals and secure a more sustainable and resilient future for our planet.
In climate and meteorology, few phenomena are as influential and widely recognized as El Niño and La Niña. These two climate patterns, collectively known as the El Niño-Southern Oscillation (ENSO), profoundly impact weather conditions worldwide. In North America, 2023 is marked as an El Niño year, signifying significant climatic changes. But what exactly is El Niño, and how does it differ from its counterpart, La Niña? Let’s explore the dynamics of El Niño, its effects, and how it contrasts with La Niña.
El Niño Unveiled
El Niño, a Spanish term that translates to “The Little Boy” or “Christ Child,” refers to the periodic warming of the sea surface temperatures in the central and eastern equatorial Pacific Ocean. This climatic event typically occurs every 2 to 7 years, disrupting the standard weather patterns across the globe.
In an El Niño year, several key factors come into play:
Warmer Ocean Waters: The central and eastern equatorial Pacific Ocean waters have become notably warmer than usual. This warming can extend hundreds of miles offshore and significantly affect the atmosphere above.
Shifted Trade Winds: The prevailing trade winds, which typically blow east to west across the tropical Pacific, weaken during an El Niño event. This alteration in wind patterns allows warm surface waters to migrate eastward.
Atmospheric Impact: The warming of ocean waters in the Pacific Ocean triggers changes in the atmospheric circulation. These changes can lead to global weather shifts, including in North America.
The Impact of El Niño on North America
El Niño’s influence on North America’s weather is profound and multifaceted. Some of the notable effects include:
Warmer Winters: El Niño tends to bring milder winters with above-average temperatures in the northern parts of the United States and Canada. This can mean less snowfall and more favorable conditions.
Increased Precipitation: Southern regions of North America, particularly the southern United States and Mexico, often experience increased rainfall during El Niño events. This can lead to a higher risk of flooding and wetter-than-average conditions.
Drought Relief: Conversely, the northern and western parts of North America, which may have been experiencing drought conditions, can see relief due to El Niño-induced precipitation.
Tropical Storm Activity: El Niño can influence the number and intensity of tropical storms in the Atlantic and Pacific basins. It tends to suppress Atlantic hurricane activity while enhancing Pacific hurricane activity.
Agricultural Impacts: Due to unpredictable weather patterns, farmers may face challenges during El Niño years. While some regions benefit from increased rainfall, others may suffer from excessive moisture or unusual temperature fluctuations.
La Niña: The Flip Side of the Coin
Now that we have delved into the workings of El Niño, it’s essential to understand its counterpart, La Niña. La Niña, which means “The Little Girl” in Spanish, is the opposite phase of ENSO. Instead of warming sea surface temperatures, La Niña is characterized by cooler-than-average ocean waters in the central and eastern equatorial Pacific.
Critical differences between El Niño and La Niña include:
Sea Surface Temperature: While El Niño features warming ocean waters, La Niña is marked by cooling. This cooling can have contrasting effects on global weather patterns.
Trade Winds: During La Niña, trade winds strengthen, pushing warm surface waters westward across the Pacific.
North American Effects: La Niña often brings colder winters to the northern United States and Canada, with increased chances of heavy snowfall. Conversely, the southern United States may experience drier and warmer conditions, potentially exacerbating drought concerns.
Hurricane Activity: La Niña enhances hurricane activity in the Atlantic Basin, increasing the likelihood of named storms and hurricanes.
Agriculture: La Niña can pose unique challenges for agriculture, including crop stress due to drought or excessively wet conditions in various regions.
Preparing for El Niño and La Niña
Understanding the differences between El Niño and La Niña is crucial for preparedness and risk mitigation, particularly for industries heavily reliant on weather patterns, such as agriculture, energy, and disaster management. Meteorologists and climate scientists closely monitor these phenomena, providing valuable insights to help individuals, communities, and governments prepare for the associated impacts.
As North America experiences an El Niño year in 2023 that will last into 2024, residents, businesses, and policymakers must stay informed and adapt to the shifting weather patterns. By understanding the nuances of El Niño and La Niña, we can better anticipate and navigate the challenges and opportunities that arise with these recurring climate events.
As the festive season approaches and the winter chill sets in, December presents a unique set of tasks and opportunities for garden enthusiasts. While the garden may seem dormant, this month is a crucial period for maintenance, planting certain species, and embracing the holiday spirit with garden decorations. Here’s a guide to making the most of your garden in December.
Garden Maintenance
Protecting Plants from Frost: December often brings frost, which can harm vulnerable plants. Protect your perennials by adding a layer of mulch around their base. For delicate plants, consider using frost cloths or moving them indoors.
Pruning and Cleanup: It’s the perfect time to prune dormant trees and shrubs. Remove any dead or diseased branches to encourage healthy growth in spring.
Lawn Care: Avoid walking on frosty grass to prevent damage. If the weather is mild, this is an excellent time to aerate your lawn and remove any thatch buildup.
Tool Maintenance: Clean, sharpen, and oil your gardening tools. Proper maintenance in December means they’ll be ready to go when spring arrives.
Planting in December
Bare-Root Plants: December is ideal for planting bare-root trees and shrubs, such as fruit trees and roses. The dormant season gives these plants time to establish roots in their new location before the growing season.
Bulbs for Spring: If you haven’t already, plant spring bulbs like tulips, daffodils, and hyacinths. Ensure you plant them at the correct depth for a beautiful display in the spring.
Winter Vegetables: Depending on your climate, you can plant hardy vegetables like onions, garlic, and some varieties of lettuce that can survive the winter.
Holiday Decorations
Natural Decor: Use your garden to inspire your holiday decor. Holly, ivy, evergreens, pinecones, and branches can be used to create wreaths, garlands, and centerpieces.
Lighting: Add a magical touch to your garden with outdoor-safe holiday lights. Wrap them around trees and shrubs, or use them to highlight garden paths and structures.
Outdoor Displays: Consider a themed display for your front garden, such as a winter wonderland scene with snowmen and reindeer. Ensure any decorations are weather-resistant and securely fastened.
Additional Tips
Wildlife Care: Remember the wildlife in your garden. Bird feeders and water baths can help birds during the harsh winter months.
Composting: Keep adding to your compost heap, but avoid adding perennial weeds or diseased plants.
Planning for Next Year: Use the quieter winter months to plan next year’s garden. Research plants, sketch out garden designs, and order seeds and supplies.
Houseplants: Remember indoor plants. They’ll need less water in the winter, but ensure they still receive enough light and aren’t affected by drafts.
December might seem like a time for gardeners to rest, but it’s filled with opportunities to prepare, maintain, and enjoy your garden uniquely. Whether it’s through winter plantings, festive decorations, or essential maintenance tasks, plenty will keep you busy in the garden during this holiday month. So, wrap up warm, get out there, and enjoy the crisp winter air as you lay the groundwork for a splendid garden in the year ahead.
Try this if you’re looking for something else to talk about this year at your family holiday get-together other than politics. What is more sustainable, a real or fake Christmas tree? This year more than any other year, you will be able to strike up a spirited conversation. While immediately evident to many, the answer is much more complicated than it sounds. There are many contributing factors to the correct answer, often depending on circumstances. Below are factors to consider when you make your choice.
Real Christmas Tree
According to the National Christmas Tree Association (I bet you didn’t know there was one of those), 25 -30 million real Christmas trees are sold each Christmas. The large majority of Christmas trees are grown on around 15,000 farms across the U.S. These farms employ approximately 100,000 people. These trees grow in almost every state, so the concept of farm to living room for your tree can work. These trees can be chipped into mulch after Christmas and used to feed other plants. Some live trees are used in the home and replanted in yards after Christmas. This gets tricky due to temperature differences so check this article out if you decide to try this.
Most likely, you will drive to purchase your tree, and you will have to dispose of the tree as well and repeat this each year. In addition, real trees are more expensive than artificial trees over time and pose a fire hazard.
Artificial Christmas Tree
The ease of buying an artificial tree today is very enticing. They even come pre-lit with LED lights that change color with the click of a button. For any Dad who has spent a Christmas day putting together an adjustable basketball system, pre-lit sounds fantastic. You can purchase these on Amazon; many are eligible for Prime shipping. No driving, use the same tree year after year. What more could you ask for? They can easily be stored and used year after year. Plus, you will not have to pick up dried pine needles from the floor every day.
Artificial trees are a great choice until you need to dispose of them. Then, like plastic bottles, they remain in landfills for a long time. Often these trees are not made in the United States, and shipping them from other countries is an enormous environmental cost.
So what’s the answer?
The real tree comes out on top. Most experts agree you will have to keep your artificial tree for more than 18 years to overcome the carbon footprint issues of transportation and eventual disposal. That is a long commitment, and it is hard to imagine we would take care of the trees that long. Because the real tree can be reused immediately for mulch makes, this is the better choice. You can improve on this by purchasing your tree from a local farm or making sure it was grown in your state. Be sure to dispose of it at a facility that makes mulch, and you can have a guilt free Christmas when it comes to your tree. If you enjoyed this post, please consider subscribing or follow me on Twitter @H2oTrends.
Antioxidants are substances that can prevent or slow damage to cells caused by free radicals, unstable molecules the body produces as a reaction to environmental and other pressures. Certain fruits and vegetables are rich in antioxidants. If you want to increase your intake of antioxidants and prefer to get them through organically grown foods from your garden, this is the blog article for you.
A few years back, Tom Spellman suggested, “If you are going to grow plants in your garden, grow plants you like to eat.” An excellent suggestion, except there are so many fruits and vegetables that taste great. So, he takes it one step further and suggests we grow the food we like and is good for us. Fruits and vegetables high in antioxidants are the plants to grow in your backyard.
This video is a 30-minute conversation with Tom filled with great suggestions of plants to grow high in antioxidants and excellent tips to make sure they thrive.
Below is additional information from Tom to help you be more successful in growing plants high in antioxidants.
High antioxidant value fruits have become all the rage for home growers. Fruits high in these qualities provide many vitamins, minerals, and phytonutrients essential to general health and well-being. Most fruits and vegetables offer some antioxidant value. One common trait of most high antioxidant value fruit is dark, bright interior and exterior pigment color. Black, red, purple, and orange-colored fruits generally have the highest value.
Antioxidant values of most fruits are calculated using the ORAC scale (OXYGEN RADICAL ABSORBANCE CAPACITY). The following is a list with information on fruits containing some of the highest antioxidant ORAC values. The ORAC numbers represent the approximate values found in each fruit’s 3 to 4-ounce serving. The recommended daily intake of antioxidants is 3000 to 6000 ORAC units. Growing recommendations are also discussed.
Blueberries – 2500 ORAC
Blueberries require a fast-draining, high organic, acidic growing media, consisting of 1/3 peat moss, 1/3 ground bark, and 1/3 fast-draining potting soil. Full sun exposure is recommended, but blueberries will tolerate some afternoon shade. In the southwest, it is challenging to grow blueberries in the ground. Containers raised beds and mounded plantings using the recommended media will help to ensure success. Most blueberry varieties are self-fruitful.
However, it is best to plant at least three different varieties together for the best pollination and heavy fruiting. Blueberries fruit in the spring through mid-summer.
Prune to shape only in late summer after the fruiting season is complete. Late fall or winter pruning will result in the removal of fruiting wood for the next season. Feed blueberries lightly and frequently from February through September. Use a humic acid-based, low nitrogen, high phosphorus, and potassium fertilizer with trace elements. Soil sulfur can also be used occasionally to help keep the soil to an acidic PH.
Cane berries prefer a well-drained, moist soil condition and full sun exposure. Some late afternoon shade is acceptable. Cane berries are vines and should be supported on a trellis or post and wire system. Cane berries require annual rejuvenation. In the fall, cut out old canes that fruited through the previous summer. After summer, bring up all-new canes that grew out and affix them to the support system. These new canes will be your fruiting wood the following spring and summer. If growth is too dense, some thinning of canes is advised. Fertilize two to three times from February through June.
Cherries – 700 ORAC for Reds
Cherries require full sun exposure for the best quality fruit. Fast draining, sandy soil is best. If soil conditions are not optimal, a raised bed or mounded planting style will do the trick. Most cherry varieties require cross-pollination, so planting two pollen-compatible varieties is highly recommended.
Even varieties listed as self-fruitful will produce a much heavier crop when planted together with another pollinating companion. All cherries require some winter chill. Be sure to choose varieties that are adaptable to your particular climate conditions. If space for two single trees is an issue, it is suitable to plant the two varieties together and manage them as a single specimen. Unpruned, even semi-dwarf cherries can grow to 20′ or better. Choose a manageable size for you, and do not allow your cherries to grow larger than your chosen size. For ease of maintenance and harvest, it is best to summer prune after harvest. July and August are good months for summer pruning.
You can look for detailed pruning issues when dormant during the winter season. Remove deadwood, diseased wood, criss-crossing branches, and open the center, as desired. In hot summer climates, cherry trees are susceptible to sunburn. Be sure to whitewash the trunk and southwest exposed structure with white or neutral color water-based tree paint. Whitewashing is best accomplished during the dormant winter season. Fertilize two or three times annually from February through June.
Pomegranate – 3000 ORAC for Dark Reds
Cultivation of the pomegranate goes back more than 5,000 years. Pomegranates require full sun exposure. Most varieties prefer long, hot summers. They thrive naturally in desert regions of the Middle East and the Mediterranean. Pomegranates adapt well to most soil types, but flower and immature fruit drop may occur if the soil stays too wet or the location is shaded.
Pomegranate lends itself well to structuring; they can be grown as thick hedges. They can be easily espaliered and pruned for landscape function. Pomegranate grows naturally in a multi-trunked, bushy form. With some diligent pruning, they can be grown as a single-trunked tree as well.
Many pomegranate varieties are available for sale, so do your homework and select the variety best suited to your growing needs. Flavors range from acidic to sweet. Interior aril colors can vary from clear to light pink to red to almost black. Remember, the darker the color, the higher the antioxidant value. Flower colors can range from light creamy orange to dark red-orange. Fall foliage color is a striking bright yellow. Pomegranates have almost no susceptibility to pest or disease issues when grown properly. Pomegranate should rate high on your landscape list and consider its beauty, diversity, flavor, and high vitamin and nutrient value. Fertilize two times annually, February and June.
Plum – 1000 ORAC for Red, 1150 for Black
Plums have always been one of the most popular backyard fruit trees. When you bite into your first tree-ripened Santa Rosa or Burgundy, you’ll know exactly why. Plums will do best with full sun exposure. In addition, they prefer fast-draining soil.
Some rootstocks used for plum-like Citation will do well in soil that is heavier and not as fast draining. Make sure to choose the suitable varieties for your climate and the right rootstock for soil and geographic adaptability. Some plum varieties are self-fruitful, and some require cross-pollination. Like cherries and blueberries, even the self-fruitful varieties will produce heavier crops with cross-pollination. Plum is another great candidate for multiple planting. Plant two, three, or four successive ripening varieties in the space of one tree and have a continued harvest through most of the summer.
Pluots (plum/apricot hybrids) can also be worked into your plum combination planting. You can easily manage a four-in-one plum combination in the space you would have only considered previously for one tree. Summer prune for size control and winter prune for detail. Choose a manageable size for you, and do not allow your plum or plum combination to become any more prominent than your chosen size. Plums and pluots are available in a rainbow of colors. Remember – the darker the color, the higher the antioxidant value. Fertilize annually two or three times from February through June.
Grape – 800 ORAC Red, 1000 ORAC Black
Grapes thrive with full sun exposure. The roots can be shaded, but the vine tops should be right out in the open. Grape is a fast-growing vine and requires structured support; choose a trellis, arbor, patio posts, fence posts, or a simple post and wire system.
The first two years in the ground should be dedicated to establishing the finished, desired form. After the form is established in the third season, you can start pruning for fruit production. Grape pruning is best accomplished during the dormant winter season.
Grapes fall into two distinctly different pruning styles. The first is spur pruning. Last summer’s growth clusters that grew from the structured form are thinned down to single vines, each in spur pruning. Then the remaining chosen vines are cut back to three to five buds from the point of origin, approximately 4″ to 8″ in length. Flowers and fruit clusters will form from these short spurs.
The second method is cane pruning. Last summer’s growth clusters are also thinned down to single vines in cane pruning. Then the remaining single vines are cut back to approximately 18″ to 36″ in length. Flower and fruit production will form along these longer canes. It’s best to tie these longer canes back into the support system, so the weight of the fruit will not break them out, and the fruit will not drop to the ground. Again, do your homework. Some popular commercial grape varieties require early-season heat to ripen properly. Look for varieties that are best suited to your climate and geographic area. Fertilize two to three times annually from February through June.
Olive – 600 ORAC Green, 800 ORAC Black
Olive trees require full sun exposure. They will thrive in most soil types. Olive trees can literally live and produce for hundreds of years if grown under the right conditions. Olive fits right into our Mediterranean landscape style; drought tolerant, heat tolerant, cold tolerant, and requiring little maintenance. Few trees are as stately and beautiful as a 50-year-old olive tree, in this writer’s opinion.
Its gnarly base, blue-grey contrasting foliage color, and multi-trunked structure standouts in any landscape. For decades, homeowners have requested non-fruiting olive trees, as they’ve not wanted to deal with the flower drop, pollen, and messy fruit drop.
All that has changed in recent years, considering new information on the health benefits of using olive oil for culinary and cosmetic purposes. Newly introduced Spanish and Italian fruiting varieties are all the rage. Several varieties are available from local retail nurseries; some best for canning, some strictly for oil. Some work well for either. Fertilize once in the spring or twice annually (or whenever you think about it – they are not that picky). Once established, three to five deep irrigations are combined with average annual rainfall through the summer season, and you’ve got a tree for life.
Avocado – 800 ORAC
Avocado trees will do best in a full sun location. They require fast-draining sandy soil. A raised bed or mounded planting is also beneficial. Avocado trees should be protected from frost, especially young trees. They should also be protected from sunburn in hot summer areas. Whitewash should be applied the day the tree is transplanted into the ground or moved to a new location in its container.
Particular attention should be paid to any green bark exposed to the southwestern sun. A young Avocado tree unprotected and exposed to a weeks’ worth of direct sunlight can be damaged permanently and perish in its first season – protect your investment. Three or four different avocado varieties planted in close proximity can give you year-round, successively ripening avocados. (At a dollar apiece in the markets, I’m absolutely serious about the word “investment”).
Avocado is now considered a superfood, high in vitamins, minerals, phytonutrients, and HDL cholesterol. I try to eat an avocado or half of one every day. When considering successive ripening varieties for planting, try to include both type A and type B flowering selections. While all varieties are self-fruitful, this will help to ensure good cross-pollination and heavy crops. Fertilize three times annually from February through June.
Citrus – 600 to 900 ORAC
Citrus prefer a full sun exposure. Most varieties will grow well and produce with some late afternoon shade. Keep in mind, the more sun you get, the sweeter your fruit will ripen. Lemons and limes that don’t require high sugar levels will do better in partial shade than oranges and mandarins. Citrus prefer well-drained, sandy soil. Consider a raised bed or mounded planting if soil conditions are less than perfect. Like other fruits discussed in this article, varieties with darker interior colors like red grapefruit, blood oranges, and Cara Cara pink navel orange have higher antioxidant values.
Citrus budded to dwarf rootstocks are also very container adaptable. Citrus is a diverse fruit category, including everything from extremely sweet to sour acid. Fruit size can range from Kumquat and Calimondin (as small as a marble) to Grapefruit and Pomelo (as big as your head). A planting with as few as four or five successive ripening varieties can give you tree-ripe fruit year-round.
Most varieties will hold well on the tree for several months at peak ripeness. Citrus lend themselves well to the diversification of landscape style – from single specimens to multi-planted. Hedgerow and espalier are popular as well. Consider this; if citrus didn’t produce fruit, they would still be a popular landscape plant, providing dark green, dense foliage year-round and beautiful white to light pink flowers for weeks or even months. They could be used to replace most average landscape shrubs or small trees. In containers, fertilize lightly and frequently from February through September. In-ground fertilize three times annually from February through June.
Goji Berry –20,000 to 25,000 ORAC
The goji berry could be one of the highest sources of antioxidant value fruits to date. It produces small, orange-colored, pea-sized berries through the summer and fall. Goji prefer a full sun exposure or up to half-day shade. It doesn’t seem picky about soil type or drainage since it originates from an arid region of China and the Middle East and seems to be quite drought tolerant. Caution: Goji is considered by some to be invasive. If left uncontrolled, its roots can run under the soil and sprout several feet or yards away. However, it is a good candidate for growing under controlled conditions in a container. Fertilize twice annually in February and June but keep it low nitrogen to hold back vigor.
Helpful Growing Tips
MULCH: Mulching is probably the most important message I can pass on to contribute to your growing success. Mulch provides four critical contributions to your garden.
A 2″ to 4″ layer of mulch will help to keep summer soil temperatures cooler by as much as 15 degrees. This allows for proper root function and development at the soil surface with no stress or root damage due to excessive heat.
A 2” to 4” layer of mulch will make better use of your irrigation water by as much as 50%. This is huge during our current drought conditions.
A 2” to 4” layer of mulch will activate mycorrhizal activity and encourage beneficial insect and fungal activity that allows your plants to grow and function as nature intended, allowing plants to take valuable nutrients out of the soil as the mulch decomposes.
A 2” to 4” layer will not allow weed seeds to germinate through it, thus eliminating one of the most tedious garden chores by 80% or more. Caution: control Bermuda grass before applying mulch over it.
WATER: Irrigation should always be thorough and deep. Shallow irrigations promote weak rooted plants that do not handle heat stress. Shallow-rooted fruit trees are inadequate in bloom and susceptible to immature fruit drop. Make it count and allow plants to go slightly dry in between irrigations when you water. (Slightly dry, not bone dry). Be consistent in checking the soil with a moisture meter and irrigate when the meter reads right in the middle between moist and dry. If the meter reads wet, no irrigation is required. If your irrigation system is timer-based, be willing to change settings as seasons and plants need change. Summer is the season of the highest usage; start backing off as fall weather approaches. Winter requires almost no irrigation as long as we receive normal rainfall. In spring, make sure to irrigate as bloom and fruit set begin to ensure a healthy crop.
FERTILIZER: Fertilize for two different reasons. First, fertilize for young trees in the ground for the first, second, and possibly the third year. During this time, you are growing trees to your chosen size and establishing the canopy for future fruit crops. Establishing size and structure will require fertilizers higher in nitrogen. Higher nitrogen fertilizers provide plants with the proper nutrients to promote vigor and growth.
After the second or third year, when mature tree size has been established, you should switch to a much lower nitrogen fertilizer and higher in phosphorus and potassium. This lower nitrogen fertilizer will provide your plants with the nutrition required to produce flowers and a robust fruit set. In addition, the small amount of nitrogen will be adequate to keep up foliage color and health.
For best results, look for organic fertilizers, humic acid-based. Lower nitrogen, humic acid-based fertilizers are more compatible with maintaining a living mulch layer. High nitrogen can destroy living bio-activity in the soil. It is best to establish a six-month on and six months off fertilizing program as discussed by variety. The best timing is February through July – “on,” and August through January – “off.”
Fertilizing late fall through early winter is the equivalent of going to Starbucks at 11:00 p.m. and drinking a high caffeine drink, then going home and trying to sleep. Plants need to sleep, so feed them only during the growing season. Container plants are different; they feed lightly and more frequently. Container plant soil will lose nutrients faster, so light, frequent feeding for 8 to 9 months per year is perfectly adequate.
Other fruits and foods high in antioxidants are: Pineapple, Kiwi, Apple, Apricot, Pear, Squash, Peach, Loquat, Banana, Tomato, Cranberry, Red and Pinto Beans, Peppers, Red Cabbage, Broccoli, Brussel Sprouts, Kale, Spinach, Dates, Almonds, Walnuts, Raisins, Green and Black Tea, Non-Filtered Apple Juice and a little Red Wine won’t hurt either!
For more information on growing fruit, fruit tree culture, fruit variety, and rootstock variety descriptions, and informative “Fruit Tube” videos, be sure to visit our website.
Don Cameron, owner, Terranova Ranch, Inc., started farming in 1981. He quickly realized how important water was and how he needed to be careful with any water used. Every year he installs about 3500 acres of subsurface drip tape. What he gets in return is better uniformity, better quality, and water savings.
To Don, that’s key. He wants to get as much production as he can from every drop of water he has. More crop per drop. Don and his team spend time researching companies that produce the products they use. They look for companies to stand behind the products they manufacture. He is happy working with JAIN. Don says, “Your ease of growing just changes overnight when you switch over to subsurface drip tape.”
Here are the drip tapes offered by Jain Irrigation:
